Just what is 'Cubic Zirconia' Anyway?

Cubic Zirconia....Are They For 'Real'? - an Article by C.M. Bains

Cubic zirconia, rhinestone, crystal, imitation diamond...people often use these terms interchangeably, but do they really know what each item is? Used to refer to the clear, sparkly, faceted gems often used in the crafting of sterling silver rings, earrings, necklaces, and pendants, each of these terms actually refers to a distinct and unique product. Although each of these gems look somewhat alike to the untrained eye, cubic zirconia and the others are all made of different substances, and have very specific qualities.

Cubic Zirconia, which are widely used today by makers of sterling silver jewelry, are in fact an imitation, or synthetic version, of themselves. Unknown to many is the fact that cubic zirconia are actually genuine gemstones in their own right. A 'gem', as defined by Websters Dictionary, is a 'cut, polished, faceted stone...notable for its beauty, perfection, or rarity'. A natural cubic zirconia, formed under extreme heat and pressure, over a long time, from the mineral zirconium dioxide, is all that! However, as with crystalline carbon (aka diamonds), this natural process yields up very few genuine cubic zirconia of any size.

Originally noticed in 1892 in Russia, the very simple cubic zirconia was deemed irrelevant and unstable for use in either the scientific realm or for the jewelry trade, and was thus ignored. This same basic stone was then created, in a stabilized form, by German scientists in 1930. Interestingly, in 1937 naturally occuring stable cubic zirconia were 'discovered' again, although these stones were tiny and virtually disregarded. Then, in France in 1960 research into manufacturing cubic zirconia began in earnest. The process of synthesizing zirconium dioxide to create the cubic zirconia we see in sterling silver rings and earrings today was finally perfected by Russian scientists in the early 1970's. This Russian stone was briefly named a 'fianit', but regardless of its name or lack therof, by 1980 the commercial production of manufactured cubic zirconia had reached 50 million carats! Of course, all these scientists were not working to find an affordable gem for the jewelry trade, they were seeking a reliable source of diamond-like stones for use in the laser and optical applications currently being filled by genuine diamonds.

Happily for sterling silver jewelry lovers everywhere, this perfected method of creating Cubic Zirconia does mean that jewelry designers have an almost unlimited supply of gemstones, ranging in sizes of .5mm or less to 12mm or more. The manufactured gems most often seen in sterling silver rings, earrings, and necklaces today differ only very slightly from their natural state. The main difference with stones available to the jewelry trade today is that a metal oxide stabilizer has often been added to the zirconuim dioxide during the sythesizing process. The amount of metal oxide included differs from manufacturer to manufacturer, dependant on proprietary 'recipes'. The addition of metal oxide allows producers to customize the stone by controlling the quality and 'cut-ability'. A good quality stone, well cut, in a sterling silver setting, will create an item of jewelry that will rival almost any fine gemstone for beauty and desirability.


In the jewelry world, cubic zirconia are one of the most significant imitation stones available. This status may be due to the versatility of the stone, which can be created in various colors by the addition of mineral powders during synthesis. It could also be due to the fact that cubic zirconia offer a gem that is very like a diamond by all measurable means (except price!), and therefore offers limitless possibilities for jewelry makers and those whe like to wear jewelry, as cubic zirconia are the gem most often used by designers of sterling silver jewelry. When compared to crystalline carbon--( not as catchy a name as 'diamond', but let's be scientific here)-- cubic zirconia stand up fairly well. Check it out....

Crystalline carbon: 10 Moh's rating; .044 dispersion rating; 2.417 refraction index

Cubic Zirconia: 8.5-9 Moh's rating*; .056-.060 dispersion rating*; 2.176 refraction index*

* these figures vary slightly due to the 'recipe' used by the manufacturer.

As you can see, not much variation between commonly measured values for each stone. But what do the numbers mean, you ask? Moh's rating is a hardness scale, with 10 being the highest value, all other metals and gems are measured in Moh's figures. The dispersion rating indicates the ability of a gem to throw back light from itself, in this case showing that cubic zirconia have more sparkle that diamonds. The refraction index measures how well a gem can 'break' light that passes through it into the various colors that make up light, and diamonds are slightly better at this. Also measured in the world of gems is the 'specific gravity', or weight, in carats. Cubic zirconia are 1.75 times heavier than diamonds, and are also virtually colorless, unless colored on purpose, whereas only very few natural diamonds are colorless.

Among the many available diamond look-alikes, cubic zirconia stand above the rest for quality and durability. The process of manufacturing synthetic versions of this gemstone has been perfected over time to create a stone that is sought after in the jewelry trade, most particularly by those who make sterling silver rings, earrings, necklaces or pendants. Cubic zirconia are a perfect medium in that they measure up very closely to the 'queen' of gems, the diamond, and can also be colored to make high quality simulations of colored gems such as sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. The affordable price of manufactured cubic zirconia makes this beautiful stone accessible to everyone as well, suggesting that it will probably continue to enjoy popularity as a gem of choice for jewelry designers and consumers for years to come!

Take a look at Cubic Zirconia Jewelry

What’s hot and what’s not in jewelry for 2008

An article from let's talk Fashion

What’s hot and what’s not in jewelry for 2008 :
So 2008 is here. A new year with new hopes, new beginnings, and of course, new trends. Although, fashions change at the blink of an eye but every year brings with it a trend that influences the fashion moods for the entire year. Read on if you are not only conscious but also subconscious about fashion and there is no chance that you want to be left behind walking the ramp after the red carpet is rolled off. Let’s talk about the upcoming trends in the jewelry industry.
Jewelry Trends for 2008:
So as they say it, old is gold. Classic designs in gemstone jewelry will be the hot trend for spring and summer of 2008. And the hot favorite color will be blue. Blue gemstones like sapphire, tanzanite, aquamarine and blue sapphire will be very popular for jewelry. And followed by blue, purple and green will be in demand. And the gemstones that will be popular are amethyst, peridot, green garnet and of course, the gem of gems – emerald. Gemstones like blue jade, moonstones, sapphires, lapis lazuli, blue opals etc. will also be in vogue. If you talk of gemstones, bead strands and bead necklaces will the charm of the season. And if you are looking at complementing your gemstone pendant or gemstone earrings with other gems for added color, you can choose from citrine, yellow topaz, amber, and color diamonds.

If you want something less expensive, look for sterling silver jewelry. Sterling silver is an alluring substitute to white gold. The cool hues of sterling silver when combined with the warmth of colorful gems, an enchanting look is created. You can combine the icy brilliance of white sapphire or white topaz for a diamond like feel. You can create the rich and elegant look of diamonds for a fraction of the amount spend.
Come fall, black will return with its mystery and magic. Black onyx, black diamonds, and classic black pearls will be the look of the season. As for the designs, necklaces, bracelets and earrings in layers will dominate the ramp. And the common trend of the season, the antique look will be the poplar trend. Pear shaped gemstones in all sizes and colors will be in craze.
Brides Jewelry: Traditional heart pendant with the platinum and diamond heart necklaces will be in vogue. Despite the fact that metal colors are always a popular fashion for brides, cool tones of platinum would also make a charming appearance.

History of Sterling Silver Charms

History of Sterling Silver Jewelry Charms - by: Martin Smith


Charms are also known as amulets and pendants. They are as popular today as they have been throughout recorded history. Ancient Egyptians wore bracelets with charms or amulets. They were used to protect against bad luck and evil forces. They began with religious symbols and became a p art of everyday dressing.

Charms/jewelry were made of almost any material of value to people in their time. Many were made of precious metal. Others were made with gemstones inlaid in them or mounted with precious metals in the form of necklaces, crowns, staffs, and bracelets. Queen Victoria gets the credit for popularizing jewelry charms throughout Europe by wearing lockets or charms on her royal bracelets

America became enchanted with Charms around the time frame of World War II. Soldiers returning from duty station brought with them various types of charms or pendants. Today popular charms are made from Gold and Sterling silver. Other materials are still used in the making of charms.

Sterling Silver Charms today represent as many things as there are interests and personalities. Some charms or pendants represent the religious leanings of the wearer. They also represent the interest of the wearer such a musical instrument for a music lover, a pair of sneakers for a jogger, or ballet slippers for a ballerina. Imagination is the only limit for what a charm can represent. Silver charms are also used to commemorate life events such as births, weddings, anniversaries, birthdays or graduations.

Silver is a soft metal and its usage has been favored for centuries. It is used to make charms often related to religious worship. Silver has been a symbol of comfortable living. Sterling silver is much stronger than pure silver which is harder to work with when making pendants or charms. Sterling silver is approximately ninety percent silver. The last ten percent or so can be any one of the following: copper, zinc, or nickel and is more durable than pure silver but it still retains its inherent beauty.

Charms, whether made of sterling silver or some other materials, are often used to represent the person who wears or carries the charm. As has been mentioned however, they often represent the interests and personality of the wearer. During war particular items are given to the soldiers who are going off to fight. When a young teen-aged couple ’goes steady’ the young man generally gives the girl his ring or something of particular value to him. The girls might also do the same.

Charms have also been said to represent the particular spirituality of the wearer. Many people wear plain simple crosses while still others will wear the cross with the corpus - the body of Christ on it. Others wear saint’s medals. Lockets are worn with images of loved ones inside. Once used to ward against evil spirits, for good luck, and for protection in times of trouble charms have come to be an adornment for the wearer. Charm bracelets are gifts that keep on giving. A charm is often given for birthdays, graduations, a dance recital, or sports victory. They make wonderful gifts for young girls that will grow with them. There are charm necklaces as well.

Please visit http://www.jewelrycrossings.com/store/silver-charms.php for some excellent examples of modern sterling silver charms.

Whimsical Jewelry Tops Trends at JA NY

Butterfly themes, as seen in this pendant by Rhonda Faber Green, were a top trend at the recent JA New York Winter Show.



By Mary Wisniewski
Published Courtesy of NJN

New York—Spring was in the air at the JA New York Winter Show, with whimsical designs topping the trends, along with nature-inspired pieces and romantic themes.

From leaf motifs to subtle butterflies and bold serpents, designs capturing flora and fauna popped up at a plethora of designers' booths. Flower-themed jewelry bloomed throughout the show too.

Romantic flourishes such as bows, hearts, stars and wings were also in full force. A standout pair of hoops was shown at Julez Bryant's booth, with a moon on one earring and a shooting star on the other.

Many designers chose to use dream catchers in their patterns too, with John Christopher and J. Han leading the way.



"Dreamcatcher" pendant by John Christopher.


Gold designs showed a lot of openwork to accommodate a lower price point, while oxidized silver, a more affordable metal, proved its move into the mainstream.

Other top trends included swirly circle earrings, cocktail rings, big hoops, gemstone clusters and bold, eccentric necklaces.

The JA New York Winter Show was held from March 9-11 at the Jacob K. Javits Center in New York City.

Some Interesting Facts About Silver

SILVER FACTS


Silvers chemical symbol from the periodic table is Ag. Its Atomic number is 47, its atomic weight is 107.8682(2) and its melting point is 961.78 °C (1763.2 °F).

Man learned to separate silver from lead as early as 3,000 B.C. Silver has been mined and prized for its beauty and durability for at least 6,000 years.

Silver has superior bactericidal qualities. Small concentrations of silver or silver salts kill bacteria by chemically affecting the cell membranes, causing them to break down. Bacteria do not develop resistance to silver, as they do to many antibiotics.

Silver is the best conductor of heat of all elements. Its uses in solar panels and automobile rear window defoggers take advantage of this quality.

Silver is the best conductor of electricity of all elements. In fact, silver defines conductivity - all other metals are compared against it. On a scale of 0 to 100, silver ranks 100, with copper at 97 and gold at 76. Silver is commonly used in electrical circuits and contacts. Silver is also utilized in batteries where dependability is mandatory and weight restrictions apply, such as those for portable surgical tools, hearing aids, pacemakers and space travel.

Silver has the highest degree of optical reflectivity of all elements. A silver mirror can reflect about 95% of the visible light spectrum. (most mirrors are silver). Besides vanity uses, mirrors are important components in telescopes, microscopes and solar panels.

Silver is more ductile than any element except gold. One ounce of silver can be drawn into 8,000 feet of thin wire.

Silver is more malleability than any element except gold. One grain of silver can be made into a sheet one hundred and fifty times thinner than a piece of paper.

More than 2/3 of the silver produced worldwide is a by product of lead, copper and zinc mining.

The major producers of silver include the United States, Mexico, Canada, Peru, Russia and Australia.

About 1/3 of the silver produced worldwide is used in photography.

Silver iodide is often used in cloud seeding. A pound of silver iodide is enough to seed many cubic miles of clouds.

United States coinage minted prior to 1965 contained 90% silver. A bag holding $1,000 face value of pre-1965 dimes, quarters and half-dollars contains approximately 715 ounces of silver.

United States Kennedy half-dollars minted from 1965 to 1969 contained 40% silver. A bag holding $1,000 face value of these Kennedy half-dollars contains approximately 295 ounces of silver.

Source: silveruserassociation.org

Wholesale Sterling Silver Jewelry Guide: Determine Prices By Quality

Wholesale Sterling Silver Jewelry Guide: Determine Prices By Quality
By Greg Peterson


It takes many years of experience in trading sterling silver jewelry to tell whether a piece of jewelry is of high quality or not. Especially when you are buying wholesale silver jewelry, a minor difference in the quality might affect your business reputation in the long run. This article summarizes the basic metrics for anyone who is beginning to trade silver jewelry to gauge the quality of silver jewelry.

Finishing
Most of the sterling silver jewelry has some sort of plating because silver itself turns yellow over time. There are several ways of finishing a piece of silver jewelry and they will affect the cost of the jewelry substantially.

1. High polished sterling silver jewelry has no plating on the jewelry at all and is particularly popular with engravable items or for people who are allergic to certain metals such as nickel. The jewelry is polished by machine without additional raw material cost.

2. Some silver jewelry has a black antique look to cater to certain consumers. These items are processed by putting the jewelry into chemical solution to oxide the silver before polishing and the pricing is similar to that of high polished ones.

3. Another common way of finishing sterling silver jewelry is nickel plating. Although nickel plating is illegal in some countries, most of the Italian silver jewelry sold in the market today is plated with nickel. However, since nickel is not considered as precious metal, the price is usually not affected by the cost of plating.

4. The most expensive way of finishing sterling silver jewelry is using Rhodium. Rhodium is a precious metal that is even more expensive than silver. Therefore, silver jewelry with Rhodium plating is usually at least five cent more expensive per gram. Since Rhodium has the property of being highly tarnish resistant and very expensive at the same time, some manufacturers would coat the sterling silver jewelry with a thin layer of copper before plating the Rhodium to reduce the cost. It might be a good idea to ask the vendors if the Rhodium is plated directly or not because some people have skin type that would turn the copper underneath green.

Stone cutting
Sterling silver jewelry usually has natural or synthetic stones set on it. The cutting of the stones, even with the same size, might affect the cost. For instance, the synthetic diamond cubic zirconia stones would cost more if they are in princess cut as suppose to round brilliant cut. Furthermore, emerald cut and baguette cut stones are even more expensive than princess cut ones.

Stone setting
1. The way that stones are set on a piece of jewelry also affects the cost. Many pendant and bracelet styles employ an economical setting method called wax setting. The stones are not really set one by one on the jewelry. Rather, they are fixed on the mold before the jewelry is cast out from the melted silver and come out of the mold together with the silver. This lowers the cost of the silver jewelry significantly. However, the quality of the setting is not consistent and the heat of the silver in liquid form might affect the quality of the stones.

2. Besides wax setting, there are several hand-setting methods that are widely adopted. The most common one is prong setting, where the stones are held in place by three to eight prongs, depending on the style. More advanced settings include channel setting, bezel setting, pave setting and invisible setting. Understanding the labor costs involved in different kinds of settings is one of the keys to getting merchandize with the best prices.

Stamping and Casting
Another categorization for sterling silver jewelry is the way they manufacture the metal part. To save cost, some jewelry is made by stamping and cutting the needed shapes out from a large sheet of silver and than bend it into the desired shapes. On the other hand, a more traditional way of producing sterling silver jewelry is to cast the metal out of a mold, which is more labor intensive and hence more costly due to the polishing and filing required afterwards. The way the jewelry is made affects the durability a great deal and hence the success of your business.

Greg Peterson got his MBA from MIT business school and is now working as marketing manager for jewelry businesses featuring wholesale silver hip hop jewelry.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Greg_Peterson

How to Care for Rhodium Plated Jewelry

How to Care for Rhodium Plated Jewelry
An article by Candace W. from associatedcontent.com

My engagement ring and wedding band are two toned with white and yellow gold which I love. The white gold has a rhodium plated finish to give it a brilliant shine. Rhodium, a member of the platinum family, is a precious metal. Because it is silvery white and highly reflective it is often used to plate jewelry.

Jewelers often use rhodium plating as a finish on silver, white gold and platinum jewelry. It gives the jewelry a brighter finish. It’s hypoallergenic so it won't turn your skin green. If you have yellow gold jewelry you can also have it rhodium plated for a new look. If you change your mind it can be removed.

I found out early wearing my engagement ring that rhodium plating has a tendency to wear over time. Fortunately for those of us that have rhodium plated jewelry we can have it replated. If the rhodium plating finish wears and how fast is wears depends on the type of metal that is plated and how well and how thick the plating was applied. It also depends on how much the jewelry is worn and how you care for it.

Here is a guideline for taking care of your rhodium plated jewelry:

Keep your jewelry clean with a mixture of mild detergent and a little water. Rinse it well and dry. You can also clean it with a polishing cloth.

Do not clean your rhodium plated jewelry in chemical cleaners such as jewelry dips. Some sonic jewelry cleaners also use chemicals. It can wear the rhodium plating off more quickly. I made this mistake and have since stopped using my sonic jewelry cleaner to clean my bridal set. Instead I steam clean my rings. Another option is to use a sonic jewelry cleaner with water.

Avoid rubbing your jewelry against surfaces. If you're going to be doing a lot of work with your hands, you'll want to remove your rings during that time. This goes for when you're doing tasks such as heavy cleaning and yard work.


If you wear your rhodium plated jewelry for significant periods of time, it is bound to wear eventually. To restore its bright white and gleaming appearance you can have it replated. If you want to have a piece of jewelry replated, take it to a reputable jeweler. It costs about $25 depending on the jeweler. Some jewelry stores offer warranties with their rhodium plated merchandise that include rhodium replating. This is well worth it if you wear your jewelry every day or often. Particularly rings.

Now that you know the steps for caring for your rhodium plated jewelry you can maintain its brilliant shine.

Argentium Silver

Argentium Silver Jewelry
Filed in archive jewelry techniques by Maggie MacLean on March 06, 2008

Argentium® Sterling Silver
By definition, sterling silver has 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other materials. Pure silver (fine silver) is rather soft, so adding another metal helps make sterling silver sturdier so it holds up to regular wear. Silver is typically alloyed with copper, which makes a durable and attractive blend, but it tarnishes easily.

Argentium has the same 92.5% silver, but it also has a little bit of a metal called Germanium, which makes it far more tarnish resistant than .925 sterling silver.




Working with Argentium
Argentium is more ductile (able to stretch) and malleable (able to bend without breaking) than Sterling Silver. Before using Argentium wire, you can heat it slightly to engage the tarnish resistance, and this may harden it a little as well, and make it a little easier to work with.



The Tarnish
Sterling silver tarnishes due to the presence of sulfur, which reacts with the copper. Sulfur can come from perfume, deodorant, skin, and the atmosphere. Some people tend to tarnish silver quite rapidly.

So why doesn't Argentium tarnish like sterling silver? The difference is that small amount of Germanium. It forms a thin layer of Germanium Oxide on the surface of the metal, which is almost transparent. This layer keeps the sulfur from reaching the copper, so it can't react and cause tarnish.

While this barrier layer will build up over time at room temperature, heating it will help build the protective layer faster. This is also why it's not necessary to protect Argentium from oxygen when soldering or fusing.

When Argentium does tarnish, it takes on a very soft yellow color, where .925 sterling silver forms a dark black patina. Under normal circumstances, washing with dish washing liquid and a soft brush is all that is required to keep Argentium sterling silver jewelry bright and shiny.

Just last year, beads, chains, and clasps in Argentium became available. I think it's worth the small extra expense for its strength, beauty, and its tarnish-resistant finish.

SOURCE
About Argentium Silver